I’m wrung out, hollow, yet so full of school, work, and future research projects that I’m ready to explode. Or is it implode? Could be either I suppose. The results, compared, would be similar.
I read the hurricane reports, a well meaning friend sent them to me via email late this past evening. A well meaning friend who also put away childish things, as life moved on. I read this warning, and about the expected
.….…..
Well overhead to double overhead high SE extra long period swell.
The second email was “are we going”?
I haven’t been surfing in some time. I feel like I’ve put all fun things away. It’s time to take them out, if only for a day or two. Maybe I’m not in shape to paddle into hurricane affected waters, even on the east coast, but we’ll see. Hell yes we’re going. I’m not used to this “almost professional person” cage I am in. I have to get out of it. Turtle Bay was a tough go for me a few years ago, but that was way above my skill level, and they were suffering the result of the prior years Tsunami, Waimea Bay worked even in that setting, and was doable. Maui was easy a couple years later, and I need to blow off some steam.
There isn’t a lot of decent surfing here. The Outer Banks is OK, but the Delmarva is lacking, except during a hurricane. An offshore hurricane produces some good stuff, unless the wind squelches it. A few seconds after reading the reports I decided to forgo my Saturday meeting, and go surfing. Instead of getting my legs waxed, I waxed my board.
Not having paddled recently my abs are going to burn like hell, but I’m sitting here, happy. I’m unable to sleep. I’ve been listening to all reincarnations of Bowie’s Space Oddity, while at the same time wondering if it’s a prognosticator of doom that I choose Major Tom over Wipe Out or Surfing U.S.A.
It’s OK. I have good health care coverage. I’ve not heard yet of them denying coverage because someone was stupid enough to surf in a Hurricane. Have you?
the last email read
“I’ll pick you up a 4, that’s AM”.
Surf’s Up
Tags: Surfing
I wished I surfed, the greens are saturated from all the storms, no golf this weekend.
Sometimes I forget that you’re young and crazy.
enjoy
JACOB´s last blog ..Asian Invasion
As I worked my way up from the bottom to you I’m at my last rope about this crazy thing.
I’m sorry about the soggy greens though.
I get the overcooked part, everyone needs some time for fun. I like my water from a boat. I’ve watched too many movies where shit happens out there in the deep black water.
Have fun.
caseyjake´s last blog ..Favre
and people die taking shits on toilets, and crossing the street, because the car that hit them had a driver who was texting his wife.
No cells phones on the black water…or the blue for that matter. ;)
It’s dark at 4am.…that would be more like work for me.
You know, since earlier in the week, I’ve been thinking about beer. I really wanted a Samuel Adams, but I’m settling for an Abita Beer.
I agree. Blow out some steam.
Bennet´s last blog ..I like that I’m not the only person thinking about these ideas
The lighter for me the better as far as beer goes.
I actually blew it off, blowing it out would make me …like the Satan or something …right?
AM has a 4?!?!
Bone´s last blog ..That first year
If you want I can call you at it (4AM) one day so you can experience it firsthand.
Scary title.
Better you than me.
I never liked being out past the break in the ocean. Too lonely and cold. If I’m gonna die I want to do it with a lot of people around to watch.
john´s last blog ..World Cup Soccer – 27 Cities Left
There were a lot off people around this weekend. I love the loneliness out there though.
I don’t surf, but if I did, I’d want it to be in a hurricane. Have fun.
Doug´s last blog ..The Reformation of Wolfshausen
And you should always hike in a landslide too.
The only time to surf on most of the east coast is when the hurricanes start working their way up. That’s when all the old timers dig out their old boards and head to the shore. It also brings out all the crazy people who can barely swim… never mind surf.
Hope you having a great time in the dark waters cooper.
You are right, there were ton of old timers, the men and women who don’t come out for the usually lame east coast surf.
They closed some beaches to swimmers, but there are always the folks who are on their board for the 3rd time.….
Not too man of the where we were.
I have waited two years for an opportunity to call you a crazy bitch. After reading what follows I knew the time had come.
DANGEROUS LONG PERIOD SOUTHEAST SWELL GENERATED BY HURRICANE BILL WILL ARRIVE AT THE BEACHES ON FRIDAY…AND WILL CONTINUE TO BUILD AND PROPAGATE TOWARD OUR COAST THROUGH THE WEEKEND. IN ADDITION…THERE WILL BE HIGH ASTRONOMICAL TIDES ASSOCIATED WITH THE CURRENT NEW MOON CYCLE. THESE FACTORS WILL RESULT IN A HIGH RISK OF RIP CURRENTS THROUGH THE WEEKEND.
A HIGH RISK OF RIP CURRENTS MEANS WIND AND OR WAVE CONDITIONS SUPPORT THE DEVELOPMENT OF DANGEROUS RIP CURRENTS…ESPECIALLY IN THE VICINITY OF JETTIES…PIERS AND SANDBARS. RIP CURRENTS ARE LIFE-THREATENING TO ANYONE WHO ENTERS THE SURF. BE ESPECIALLY CAUTIOUS WITH OUTGOING TIDES WHICH IMPROVE RIP CURRENT FORMATION. ALL BEACH GOERS SHOULD REMAIN AWARE OF INHERENT DANGERS WHEN ENTERING THE SURF INCLUDING SWIFT LONGSHORE CURRENTS…POUNDING SHORE BREAK AND SHALLOW SAND BARS.
RIP CURRENTS ARE STRONG…NARROW CHANNELS OF WATER THAT FLOW OUT TO SEA. IF YOU BECOME CAUGHT IN A RIP CURRENT…REMAIN CALM. TRY TO SWIM ON A COURSE THAT IS PARALLEL TO THE BEACH UNTIL YOU GET AWAY FROM THE RIP…THEN SWIM AT AN ANGLE IN TO SHORE. DO NOT TRY TO SWIM BACK TO SHORE DIRECTLY AGAINST THE RIP…SINCE IT CAN EXHAUST AND EVEN KILL THE STRONGEST SWIMMER.
Thank you.
R
Does that mean you were worried about me randy?
We had a lot of water here, but it was in the form of rain.
I know that feeling of wanting to take off and pretend I’m carefree and without responsibilities.
kait´s last blog ..Loro Piana
You should come next time. You can build a sand sand castle.
Be young and foolish Cooper. Stay young and foolish
You’ll learn what to fear :) I was just thinking this might be an ideal time to get sick or be in an accident as insurance companies might be scared to deny anything to any person with any media savvy. That said anything happens to you, I will personally kill you as I need my Cooper fix
pia´s last blog ..Climbing metaphorical mountains
Always foolish.
I saw a kick ass bike for you this weekend Pia.
Well, the philosophy of surf is this:
Get it when you can. Who knows when it’ll come again, although it always will. Have no expectations and just go out and take what you are given.
It’s been a slow summer here in California and it’s the least I’ve ever surfed, ever. So even if its small, I go. Even if it’s big, I go (I find a nice little section to myself that isn’t too gnarly). 4am is small price to pay for the rewards that await… I had been getting at 5am every morning this summer for some really fun dawn patrols. Although, believe me, I am glad the better low tides are starting to be in the evenings now.
Have fun, and be safe! Let us know how it goes!! :) XOXOXO– your fav Cal Surfer ;)
It was awesome. I just got home an hour ago. 4 sessions this weekend. There were some old timers…crawling out of the woodwork it was great.
If it weren’t for the three hour trip to the coast I’d go more often, but it is hurricane season here, so that alone even makes day trips worthwhile — and school is in as of tomorrow less people on the roads.
I am so tired just starting to lose adrenalin. I have tons of work to do but a long hot bath is good.
pray for more Hurricanes.
hugs and kisses girlfriend
This is an insane title. Love that song.
You haven’t lost it.